Teheran we saw the last of the two thousand workmen, and trudged along a level surface where red flat reaches of the plain run up between the hills. A mud-walled obsolete fort holds the opening of the valley, and beyond this, in the hottest of the afternoon, we came to Karaj on the main road. Here we left The Refuge and the mules to trudge on through the day and night to Teheran, while 'Aziz and I took to the miseries and discomforts of Persian cars. Many delays there were and breakdowns in very sight of the capital, but finally we did arrive that evening, and in a flowering garden amid the refinements of life, said good-bye to each other with hands upon our breasts. [355]